Thursday, September 9, 2010

Botswana / Zambia - Part 2

Day 8 - 16/09/2010
Welcome back! As I stated, in my last blog, today we were heading south to Savuti camp. Ruth went great guns yesterday getting us through the thick sand, today was my chance gain experience this time.

After the usual breakfast, we broke camp and jumped in the trusty Hilux. Man, this trip was awesome so far. I was really getting to like the Toyota Hilux. Most of you know that I have bought mainly Toyotas for my personal use in the past.

The sand once again proved no match for the 4x4. I think we were in Botswana at the perfect time. No rain, which meant the river crossings were not too deep and there was no mud to contend with as well. The temperature was not too hot either. The hottest we recorded was 39c, which isn't too bad.

Over the past few days I had been hearing the African Fish Eagles call. Many of you know that this call is very unique and very, very African. You hear it on a lot of TV and radio adverts for some African product or holiday. Anyway, as we approached the Savuti camp, we saw one perched in a tree nearby. Man, what a glorious site. These are such magnificent birds!

We didn't pitch camp straight away as we wanted to do some game viewing. We took a drive out to a nearby hill, which was supposed to be Lion country. We drove to the hill and then around it to find a magnificent specimen of a Baobab tree. Ruth really enjoyed this majestic wonder. They call it the 'upside down' tree in some parts as it does look like it has been pulled up by the roots, inverted and re-planted.
After taking numerous pictures of the tree, we went looking for rock art. We parked the Toyota after a short drive and climbed the hill. We found the rock paintings after a short while. These painting consisted of Eland and Elephant. On the way down from the hill, I came across a bees nest. After a short while, these bees got quite angry and physically attacked me. Luckily I didn't get stung, but they were very aggressive.
After we climbed down from the hill, another 4x4 pulled up on the dirt-road. Three women were in the vehicle and told us that there were Lions spotted nearby earlier on! Lordy, I am glad we didn't meet up with the said Lions.

We decided to find somewhere to stop for some lunch and after a short drive we pulled up next to the river. On the other side, some tourists on a guided tour were stopped for lunch. There was a huge Elephant on our side of the river. He kept moving closer to us. As we were eating our lunch the Elephant moved into the water. On the other side, another Elephant appeared and entered the water. Before long, another one arrived. They all seemed quite happy bathing in the river.
Finishing our lunch, we headed back to the Savuti campsite. After setting up the tents, an inquisitive bull Elephant approached us. Ruth was reading in one of the rooftop tents. Malcolm and I stayed very quiet and watched the Elephant approach us. He came right up close to the vehicle, had a sniff around and then started moving away. Ruth was watching him from the tent and he passed by only inches away from Ruth. I don't think he could see her as Ruth had the mosquito net down. We joked that the Elephants eyelashes nearly poked Ruth in the eye!

After that excitement, we had yet another braai, which ended off yet another magnificent day!

The ablution block at the Savuti camp has been fortified with what looked like retaining wall blocks. The Elephants here have had a reputation for destroying the sinks and taps, trying to get to the water.

Day 9 - 17/09/2010.
We were supposed to spend another night in Linyanti camp, but the thought of grinding our way through 33km of deep sand again, kind of put us off. We decided we were going to make our way to the ferry crossing at Kazungula. Our destination was Victoria Falls just outside Livingstone in Zambia.
Heading north, we left Savuti camp towards Ghoha North Gate. This was quite a sad occasion, seeing as we were leaving the National Parks behind. We have had such a wonderful time so far, a truly African experience.

It took us around an hour and ten minutes to get to the gate. I took a photo of a poster of a Lion kill. I included this photo into my collection and Picassa photo albums, just for effect! See if you can spot the tear marks and the staples on the photo, hahaha.
After we exited the park, the road didn't change much at all. A long sandy trip until we hit the 'main' road. The main road turned out to be a 100m wide……sandy road. We threw a right turn to the east and headed towards Kasane, close to Kazungula. Lordy, it was a like a sand highway. We saw only one vehicle on the way to Kasane. We were wondering as to why the road had to be so wide. Anyway, every now and then, we had to pass a tree or two in the middle of the road. It seemed to go on and on and on, sand road into the horizon. A couple of hours later, we stopped for a tea break and change of driver.

We eventually got onto a tar road. Lordy, this was like heaven. The last 6 days have been on sand roads. We put foot to the accelerator and sped off towards Kasane.

After what seemed to be forever, we entered Kasane. Kasane is about 10km from Kazungula, the ferry crossing to Zambia. We bought a few more groceries and Malcolm went to get some US$ from the bank. We didn't hang around Kasane too long before heading to Kazungula. When we arrived at Kazungula, we went through the obligatory customs and immigration. We then joined the queue waiting for the ferry. Kazungula is apparently the only place in the world where 4 countries share borders. Botswana, Namibia, Zimbabwe and Zambia.

I walked over to a Landrover parked in the queue and asked the driver what the procedure is on the other side. He said we needed third party insurance for our vehicle, environmental or 'green' tax, municipal tax and toll gate fees. The driver of the Landrover was a Pom living in Namibia and he had done this trip numerous times. He said he had been there since 10:00am. It was now nearly 14:00. He had been waiting 4 hours for the ferry as one of the ferries had been damaged earlier by a truck.
In the meantime, Ruth had wandered off somewhere. After a short while, a couple of concerned locals came running over to Malcolm and myself. They were quite agitated and they told me the 'White lady' has walked to Zimbabwe and she will get arrested by the Zimbabweans….??? Seeing as Zimbabwe was only about 10 metres from where we were, with no visible fences, Ruth wasn't the wiser. Anyway, I ran over and shouted for Ruth to come back as she was an illegal immigrant in Zimbabwe. Man, we laughed about this for the rest of the trip. I suppose we will never forget it….. Apparently the fence has been destroyed by Elephants, probably many years ago..

We were in luck. The ferry started coming across from the Zambian side. We didn't get on the first one, but managed to get on the second one. We had waited less than an hour!
On the other side, in Zambia, we went through the standard beaurocratic waltz to get all our paperwork in order. Man, this was crazy. Then again as I said before, TIA.

Livingstone was around 80km from the ferry crossing. Just passed the Immigration and Customs, we saw the trucks. Hundreds of them. Lined up on both sides of the road. Man, oh man, the ferry only takes one truck at a time and about 4 sedan size vehicles. How long were these trucks going to wait to get across? Lord knows??? We got to Livingstone in good time and proceeded to find some accommodation. We ended up finding 2 rooms a 'Zig Zag', a cute, friendly motel of sorts. We checked in and then headed off to the Royal Zambezi resort for cocktails. It had been a long day and we needed some R&R. Upon arriving, we parked the car and walked over to the outside bar area. This was situated right on the Zambezi river. Before we knew it, there it was. Mosi-oa-Tunya, The Smoke that Thunders. Victoria Falls. We were upstream from the Falls, but we could sure as hell see the 'Smoke'. We found a couch, ordered some cocktails and enjoyed this magnificent evening.

After our cocktails, we headed back to Zig Zag for dinner.
Day 10 - 18/09/2010.
After a hearty breakfast at Zig-Zag, we had to check out as they didn't have any rooms available for the next two nights…..damn… Anyway, we jumped in the Toyota and headed off to 'Mosi-ao-Tunya' (The Smoke That Thunders), Victoria Falls.

A short drive later, we entered the Victoria Falls National Park, paid our entrance fee and parked the car. A five minute walk later and there it was in all its glory, Victoria Falls. Man, it was magnificent. One of the Seven Natural Wonders of the World. We proceeded to follow the pathway which takes you along, probably half of the Falls. The other half is in Zimbabwe and divided by a huge gorge. Victoria Falls are 1.7km wide and around 90 metres high in places.

Seeing as it wasn't the wet season, the Falls weren't torrential, but spectacular nonetheless. It is kind of a case of damned if you do, damned if you don't. A friend of mine, Ian, was here in April and he said you couldn't see any rocks on the Falls. Everything was covered in gushing water. He also said the 'Smoke' was a bit too much as it was like constant rain. Not great for photography. Anyway, I was more than happy with our view….

We walked for around an hour, taking photos and looking in awe of the Falls. The bridge crossing the mighty Zambezi between Zambia and Zimbabwe was incredible too. You could see the bungee jumpers leaping off into oblivion! We continued the trail along the Falls and then back again. We tried to walk around to the other side where the water feeds the Falls, but we headed back after this proved a little difficult, even for Ruth..

We drove back to Zig-Zag for lunch, which was a very pleasant affair under the tress in the garden. Malcolm and I proceeded to get stuck into the 'Mosi' beer whilst Ruth went to find suitable accommodations for us for the night.

A couple of hours and a few 'Mosi's' later Ruth arrived and said she had found a great place to stay, called 'The Green Tree Lodge', for the next two nights. So, we packed up and headed for the said accommodations.

Turns out that the 'Green Tree Lodge' was really great. It was run by a Scots guy called Hector, who had lived and worked in Zambia for the last 40 or so years. He was really hospitable, even for a Scot!

That night we sat around Hector's bar and then we finished off the T-Bones on the braai. Hector rustled up some salads and some chips for us to accompany the T-Bones. All this was washed down with the local Mosi beer.

Hector had a whole fleet of Rabbits running around his garden, as well as about 5 Guinea Fowl. A regular little zoo.

It was time to get some shut-eye. Tomorrow, Ruth and I were going white water rafting and Malcolm was doing a helicopter trip over the Falls and down the great Zambezi canyons.
For photos of Victoria Falls and Livingstone, please click on the link below:

Day 11 - 19/09/2010.
It was Ruth's blinking idea to do this white water rafting thing! I must admit, coming all this way and not doing it would have been worse, unless you are Malcolm that is…….

We scoffed down our breakfast at Hectors place. At about 8am a truck pulled in to pick us up and take us to the start of the rafting adventure.

We ended up going back to the carpark in the Victoria Falls National Park. We then went into the grounds of the Royal Zambezi Sun where around 10 of us introduced ourselves. We were given some safety tips and the general how-not-to-die-in-the-Zambezi 'schpiel'. Kitted up with a paddle and a helmet, we trekked down to the mighty Zambezi where a horde of black men were busy pumping up half a dozen rafts…..

Ruth and I were sharing a raft with a young couple and an Oarsman called Potato! He was a really great Zambian bloke.

10 rapids were the order of the day. Ruth and I had booked only the half day trip. Turns out that this was more than sufficient. Seeing as this was the dry season, the river was low. Depending on your sense of adventure, this was either a good a bad thing. For the adventurous, this was good as the lower the water, the more fierce are the rapids as the rocks are more prominent. Oh my!

The first rapid was a bit hectic as this was a test run. We had to get across this one and enter the flow of the river. We made it across on our second attempt without any hassles, then we headed under the bridge for rapid number 2.

There were 2 rafts in our 'convoy' and on rapid number 4, the other boat flipped over. Man, that looked scary. One of the blokes got stuck under the raft and by the time he surfaced, he was terrified! I grabbed him by his life-vest and pulled him aboard our raft. Poor bugger was coughing up water and didn't want to continue with the trip….he had had enough… Problem was, was that there was nowhere for him to go. Seeing as we were in a huge, magnificent canyon, he had to continue. They righted the other raft and he went back to his boat…

Lordy, I was awestruck at the beauty of the canyon we paddled through. I have had friends do the white water rafting here before and the stories where always awe inspiring. Now Ruth and I were experiencing it….WOW!

At rapid 9, we all had to get out and walk around it. Apparently it is 'Not good for business', as Potato told us! However, he went through it on his own, just to get the raft down river. He held on for dear life and managed not to get stuck in the whirlpool.

It is hard to describe the feeling as you get thrown about the raft whilst all you can see is a wall of white water. What an adrenaline rush!

We met up with Malcolm in the late afternoon to share stories. Malcolm had some incredible film footage of his helicopter ride through the canyons and up over the great Falls…

This evening, we decided to take it a bit easier and go on a boat cruise of the Zambezi river. This was around $US 75 per person for a 3 hour trip up the river with all drinks and snacks included. Our boat was called the 'African Queen'. Man, this was such a relaxing end to a hectic day. We spotted a couple of Hippos swimming in the river. The sunset was to die for. I feel sorry for all those South Africans who leave Africa and then tell the ones they left behind that they now have a better lifestyle. Personally I think Africa is the most beautiful place on earth.
For photos of the White Water Rafting Adventure, please click on the link below:

Day 12 - 20/09/2010.
This was the day the 3 of us were dreading. Packing up and heading back to South Africa. After breakfast, we said our goodbyes to Hector and then hit the road for the ferry crossing. Within the hour we were back at the customs and immigration offices. Fortunately it was easier to get on the ferry as it was coming across from Botswana. Soon Malcolm drove the Hilux onto the ferry and we were headed back across the Zambezi, to Botswana.

We intended to drive all day to Martins Drift. This was around 750km's. It took us around 11 hours to get to Martin's Drift, seeing as the speed limit kept dropping to 80km per hour. Whilst Ruth was driving, I was egging her on to speed up. Lo and behold, we were pulled up for speeding. 70km in a 60km zone. I read before we left SA that fines have to be paid in cash to the traffic officers. Ruth's fine was 300 Pula, just over R300 for her 10km misdemeanour. Luckily we had cash on us otherwise the Police Officers would have driven us to the nearest ATM to extract the fine. The nearest ATM could have been a 100km away!

We stopped in Nata to stretch our legs and grab a bite to eat. We had driven 286km so far. Still a long way to go.

Continuing along the A3, we passed through Francistown, the second largest town in Botswana. From here, we turned onto the A1. Eventually, we got to Palapye. Malcolm took over the driving and spent the next two hours driving in the dark, trying successfully (thank goodness) dodging cattle and donkeys on the road.

After a very long day we eventually arrived at Martin's Drift campsite. We promptly set up the tents. Ruth had a shower and went to bed. Malcolm and I headed over to the restaurant for a buffet dinner and a couple of beers.

Tomorrow was the last leg of our epic journey.
Day 13 - 21/09/2010.
This was the last time we were going to pack up our camp site. Pretty sombre occasion, but I think we were all looking forward to sleeping in our own beds.

One last time, we all mucked in to prepare the obligatory breakfast of boiled eggs, toast and coffee. Having done this, we folded up the tents and made sure we had everything and then headed off back to Johannesburg.

This leg back was pretty uneventful. We stopped a few times to put in R50 worth of diesel as we didn’t want to give the Hilux back with too much diesel in it seeing as there was barely a lick of fuel in the tank when we picked it up.

Took us around 5 hours to get back to Jozi. We quickly unpacked all our gear, then Malcolm and I took the Hilux back to Maui in Kempton Park after giving it a quick wash and brush-up….

All in all, it was a most amazing trip. Trip of a lifetime, one would say. These memories, we will surely treasure for a lifetime. Who knows, we may even head back there….

Cheers….

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